But with the texture of hardtack and roughly the same flavor, it has a strange, insulating effect. The crust does a spectacular job as a presentation piece the pies look wonderful as the servers hoist above you the first slice from the deep pie, like proof of cheesy concept. The crust transitions from rock solid, to pleasantly moist, to nearly raw inside. And it’s especially galling that a pizza that takes 45 minutes to cook arrives partly underdone. The problem is the crust - it’s as thick, structurally sound, and tasty as mortar. With Giordano’s signature stuffed pizza ($22.25, small special), the cheese may in fact be the best part, sufficiently stringy and flavorful enough to pass. What usually dooms a deep-dish is the cheese - too much of it, or too low quality, usually both. But for this pizza, it’s certifiable lunacy. This is good, because waiting three hours for any pizza is slightly crazy. The staff predicts that things will settle down in a few weeks, and we’ve noticed that the restaurant is only sporadically populated during lunchtime. The first Minnesota outpost of the Chicago-based chain opened Wednesday in Uptown and has been flooded to the tune of three-hour waits at every dinner rush since.
The question is: Is Giordano’s your kind of bad pizza? Mike Mommsen / Heavy Table Even bad pizza, even frozen pizza, with the right point of view, can magically transcend the sum of its parts (see Rocky Rococo or Heggies, for example). I’d never argue that it’s objectively great pizza, but it will always be great to me.Īs the most ubiquitous food in America, pizza gets weighed against personal history, and there’s just no accounting for taste. When I see that cheesy, square-cut beauty, I can still feel the infield dirt trapped in the toes of my stirrups. I remember the taste of Broadway Pizza from after little league games.
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